Veteran Jerusalem restaurant Joy celebrates 20 years

Published date30 March 2024
AuthorLIAM FORBERG
Publication titleJerusalem Post, The: Web Edition Articles (Israel)
Joy is currently located Mamilla Mall, where it moved in 2010, strategically located just far enough from the crowd so the sound of tourists doesn't interrupt the restaurant's jazzy atmosphere

The restaurant has changed its clothes over the years, starting with simple folk cuisine, to more complex, innovative dishes. Joy has benefited from the fine touch of chef Artur Borlaka, who has grown under the wing of chef Ezra Kedem and has managed Joy's kitchen for the past six years.

In February, the restaurant put its money where its mouth is by wrapping up NIS 2 million worth of an interior overhaul, and a redesign of the menu, now shaping up like a classic European bistro.

Joy's delicious mehadrin dishes include tried and true kebab siniyehs and honey-glazed spring chicken, but it is actually in Joy's fish where the most impressive spark of creativity and thought shines through.

Its citrusy sea-fish crudo, bream tartare and fresh red tuna sashimi make up a solid starters trio.

The tartare is laid on top of a fluffy, lightly toasted brioche, and harmonizes well with its marinade, sprouts, and radish.

The real gem of Joy's menu is the sashimi. Its meaty intensity is surrounded by eggplant, garlic fries, and heavy duty za'atar herbs, working together to create a unique and vibrant flavor combination. The dish is certainly evidence of a more refined and innovative Joy. The tartare and sashimi go for NIS 64 and NIS 76, respectively.

The rest of the starter menu offers a variety of delectable dishes. Quite possibly, too much of a variety presents the paradox of choice. From focaccia to baos, and ravioli to cigars, Joy might need to do some stocktaking and figure out what really brings people the most joy.

For cocktails, Joy offers an intriguing mix of drink options. The Green Gin for example, a foamy cucumber lime and herb based concoction, tasted like a drink...

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